3/17/2023 0 Comments 48525 smart battery isolator![]() ![]() Killed, always stayed combined at the 13.2 sustain voltage. This one, I'll keep an eye on it for that. ![]() ![]() The trigger voltage is specified at 13.1 volts, so I think it will playīetter with the PD converters than their 100-amp combiner. Indication to show when it is in overload. It is overload-protected, and includes an LED Will withstand 400 amps for the 2 seconds or so that it takes to go into Even if you attempt to start a 455 solely through the combiner, it ![]() Matt, the Yandina 160 includes overload, but is rated for 400 amps closingĬurrent. Some units like this one have "start isolation", they say to protect sensitive circuits from voltage sags, but it seems it would protect against the failure mode you've observed too. Carry the KenB 1$ combiner in your kit just in case. Repair is somewhere between impractical and impossible. The indicators are that it has engaged and there is any differential across the two main posts, it is toast. When a combiner fails, they often indicate that they are functioning properly, but in actual fact are not. This can happen any time the demand combine capability is used even if the main engine battery is at a capable state of charge. (This is where the coach was most used for 6 years.) While I like and have installed and replaced combiners as well as isolators, the combiners that are not rated at starting current (~400A for a 455) are easily damaged if left engaged when cranking. Matt Colie wrote on Wed, 17 January 2018 06:45 Please be cautious with "Smart Combiners".Īs many of you know, I was part of a boat electrics service group for many years. This one has a momentary coil for moving the relay either direction so it doesn't have a continuous electrical load in either state. I didn't mention this above, but the alternator is connected directly to the chassis battery in this installation, and my solar only can make about 5 amps. It's only rated at 65 amps though, but when you consider the 60 amp breaker to the house batteries, it would probably work. It only draws 90 mA when closed so likely doesn't get hot. A friend of mine uses this one on his SOB I did notice some other similar products. It wasn't until a thought about some critter looking for a warm spot to hang out and maybe munch on some wires while he's there that I got to thinking that maybe this isn't a good idea. Even as a potential fire hazard, I'm not too concerned. If it wasn't for the high temps, I might have not given any of this a second thought. On a 75deg or so day, the relay is hot to the touch, so probably about 130 F. I can't find a published current draw for the relay, but my guess is that it is about an amp. Solar will top off the batteries, sun goes down, smart isolator relay drains batteries a bit, relay opens, repeat tomorrow. So, in my storage scenario, this will be a daily occurrence. Eventually, a few hours later the voltage goes below 12.7 and the relay will open. Turns out when fully charged the voltages are a little higher than 12.7 volts, and since there is essentially no draw on the battery in storage (except ironically the draw of this relays coil), it stays closed. the sun goes down and/or the engine is turned off) it still stays closed! This is because it's setpoint for not charging is 12.7 volts. But, when the charging is finished, (i.e. When the voltage of either side is above 13.2 volts, it senses charging and closes the relay. I've had it installed for a few weeks and so far works great and as advertised. I can't think of any use for the momentary remote switch, but I had a spot for it and put it in anyways. I also installed a indicator on the dash and a momentary switch for this relay (independent of the stock boost switch). I bought the 85 amp flavor and decided to install it in place of the diode style isolator and keep the stock boost relays as is. Also, a fringe benefit was not having the voltage drop of the stock diode battery isolator when charging from the engine alternator. It would also charge both with the engine running or when connected to shore power. I added a solar panel to the coach 6 months ago or so, and I thought a relay like this would be really neat since the solar panel would keep both the house and chassis batteries charged while in storage. Well, that's what I expected anyway, and it does do this, but with a catch that I will get to. When you are not charging, it senses this and opens the relay. You connect the relay between your house and chassis batteries and it senses when you are charging and closes the relay to charge both battery systems. I've seen these things called smart/automatic isolators, combiners, relays, etc, but basically they are a relay with some brains built in. I've read a bit on this forum and other places about these, but thought I'd summarize what I've done and learned and see if anyone had any thoughts to add. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |